Showing posts with label lenses. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lenses. Show all posts

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Camera Lens

A light-tight box with film in it doesn’t require a lens to expose film—even a pinhole camera can capture an image. But a lens can gather more light than a pinhole. A lens can focus and clarify. It’s the tool we use to define our image.

Scientists and photographers have studied the lens since the early Twentieth Century. Few will describe any lens as technically perfect, although a lens’ unique optical characteristics make it the best choice for a particular shoot.

Lens function is complex. We know that since all visible objects reflect light rays in all directions, we must gather as many rays as possible and get them to our film without distortion. Simple lenses use a single convex glass element positioned so that the light rays from the subject are bent towards and converge at the film. By carefully placing the lens relative to the film, we successfully record an image.

An iris is an aperture of variable size used to control the intensity of light falling on film. The iris control is usually calibrated in f-stops or T-stops. A change of one f-stop or T-stop is equivalent to doubling or halving the intensity of light falling on the film. T-stops are more accurate because they factor for light loss through the lens glasses.

Simple lenses have a limited ability to focus light. Optical distortions can result when light rays enter from the lens perimeter; those rays have to travel farther to reach the film and will be less focused. Toa limited degree we can solve this problem by narrowing the glass width; the resulting loss in light, however,makes the lens “slower.” For each additional stop of light passage in a given lens, the design becomes more complex—the geometric correction becomes more extreme.

Standard, wide-angle, telephoto, and zoom lenses include the ability to adjust focus and iris. Some lenses include a second element, positioned between the first element and the film. Its concave surface compensates for the distortion of the first element. Each element introduces distortion, typically resulting in internal reflection, or flare. The distance between these elements and the precise grind of the glass is critical, and these factors add significant cost to the lens.

An aperture controls the quantity of light passing through a lens. The best lenses perform well at every aperture setting. As such, the precision of the lens must be consistent at every point within each glass element.

Dr. Max Berek of Leitz established image quality standards before 1914 by capturing “miniature” still photographs on 35 mm film. His “circle of confusion” defined the measure of permissible out–of–focus quality in a ten-inch paper photograph. Though modified, this concept endures.

Color is probably the most complex factor in lens design. Because each color has a specific wavelength measured in nanometers, a particular shade has a unique wavelength. Blue objects and red objects will focus in diJerent places on a film frame, whether the film is black-and-white or color. Getting all colors to converge on a single plane despite their diJerent lengths is fundamental to lens design. In 1938 Kodak pioneered the concept of making glass lenses with exotic types of rare-earth elements and cementing them together in each element to correct the aberration.

Zoom lenses were developed later. A good zoom lens must address each of the potential pitfalls while oJering the utility of variable focal length. In motion picture applications, the light transmission, sharpness and individual color focus must remain unchanged despite the focal length change within a shot.

Focal Length and Focus

Lenses are identified by their focal length in millimeters and maximum aperture in f-stops (e.g., 50 mm/f1.4 lens). The focal length is defined as the distance from the optical center of the lens to the film plane. The f-stop is calculated from the dimensions of the lens.

Focal Length and Angle of View

The focal length of a lens determines the angle of view, or perspective, seen through the lens. Normal lenses provide a perspective that approximates human vision.

Lenses that are shorter than normal provide a wider angle of view—they are wide-angle lenses. Lenses that are longer than normal provide a narrower point of view and magnify the subject—they are telephoto lenses. Wide-angle lenses make background objects appear further away; telephoto lenses compress distance and make the background appear closer. Thus, moving the camera toward a subject (as in a dolly move) results in a look that is very diJerent from a scene captured by zooming the lens from a stationary camera position. The apparent separation from the background, making objects relatively smaller, makes camera movement less noticeable. Thus, using wider lenses for hand-held scenes is preferable.

Saturday, August 2, 2014

Some basic photography truths …

Created by James Ryan Carssow © 2009

Photographing outdoors vs indoors Photographing outdoors in good daylight is EASY for any camera. I’ve seen good outdoor photos taken with a shoebox pinhole “camera” – seriously.
Photographing indoors or at night in sub par light is CHALLENGING for any camera and any photographer.

Shooting moving subjects
Shooting moving subjects (i.e. sports, pets, children) indoors or at night without adequate auxiliary lighting sources is EXTREMELY DIFFICULT for any camera and any photographer, and beyond the capabilities of many “consumer level” DSLR cameras and lenses. Yes, even if you paid $500 or $1000 for your camera you may be unable to get Sports Illustrated quality photos of your child’s 7 pm football game.

Lenses 
If you’re going to spend the money on a top-flight name-brand camera (Nikon, Canon, Olympus etc.) then buy the same name-brand lenses, flashes etc. in order to get the best performance from an entire camera system. There is no point to spending good money on a Nikon camera only to stick a mediocre Sigma, Tamron, or Quantaray lens on it. Retailers like Ritz/Wolf camera love to push off-brand lenses because their profit margins are higher on these cheaper products. But the most important part of any camera system is the quality of the glass in the lenses. Don’t skim on the glass to spend more on the electronics. As a general rule, DSLR cameras lose more than half their value in the first year; while quality, name-brand lenses often sell years later on the used market for 80% or more of their original purchase price.

megapixels The number of megapixels a camera utilizes is nearly meaningless as a measurement of the effectiveness of the camera or the quality of photos produced by it. Any camera with 4 megapixels or better is more than enough for any photograph printed 12x18 inches or smaller, and many 4 megapixel images can be printed as large as 2 foot x 3 foot if properly exposed and in sharp focus.
Megapixels are a misleading gimmick relied on by camera salesman to convince uneducated buyers to spend more money. Ever heard a camera salesman say, “this camera is twice as good, it has 8 megapixels and the other only has 4”. Well, just because the number 8 is double the number 4 does not mean an 8 megapixel image is twice as large (or twice as good) as a 4 megapixel image. A 4 megapixel image is approximately 2450 pixels by 1650 pixels = 4 million pixels. An 8 megapixel image is approximately 3600 pixels by 2400 pixel = 8 million pixels.
Look at the numbers: 3600 is not twice as much as 2450. And 2400 is not twice as much as 1650.

At best an 8 megapixel image is 50 percent “larger” than a 4 megapixel image, and in reality it is less significant than that in terms of a difference noticeable to the human eye. In order to achieve an image size twice as large as 4 megapixels, you need an image that is 4800 pixels x 3600 pixels or approximately 16 megapixels. And for what photographic purpose would you need 16 megapixels? To print billboards? Unless
you’re a professional making money on photography that requires extremely large prints, any camera offered for sale as of 2008 already has more megapixels than you’ll ever need or use.
So if given the choice between buying two very similar cameras, especially if from the same manufacturer, go for the camera with fewer megapixels because it will cost significantly less and offer no significant reduction in photographic quality. Camera makers and sellers love to charge hundreds of dollars more for a few more megapixels. Do the math and you’ll see the difference is negligible. Look at photographs taken with each camera and you’ll see the difference is even less.

One of the biggest scams in camera sales as of Christmas 2008 is the Nikon D60 a 10 megapixel DSLR camera that sells for $700 with a lens when compared to the Nikon D40, a nearly identical camera with 6 megapixels that sells for $450 with a lens. That’s a difference of $250 for 4 extra useless megapixels.

Of course, many cameras with higher megapixel counts also offer many other legitimate improvements over lower-megapixel cameras. The Nikon D200, for instance, was a quantum leap improvement over the D100 model it replaced, not because it had 10 MP to the D100’s 6 MP, but because it was built of stronger titanium alloy, had a more sophisticated autofocus system, a faster frame-advance rate, a significantly better flash system, a larger and brighter LCD screen, better ergonomics and menu design, and many other advances making it a better overall camera/