Created by James Ryan Carssow © 2009
ISO, along with White Balance, is what sets digital cameras apart from 35mm film
cameras. With film, you loaded one roll of film and used that film speed for that entire roll. If you wanted to use a different film speed, you waited until you changed rolls. With digital, you can change the ISO setting for each photograph if you desire. This opens up a whole new world of options by allowing the third element of exposure – ISO – to be adjusted for each photo, just like shutter speed and aperture.
The trade-off:
A higher ISO is more sensitive to light (brighter), but usually offers less pleasing overall results because of increases in “grain” or “noise” in the final image and less overall sharpness, crispness, and color saturation.
A lower ISO is less sensitive to light (darker), but usually offers more pleasing overall results because of less grain/noise and better overall sharpness and color.
But this trade-off changes every year as the higher ISO settings in newer cameras get better and better. Five years ago, ISO 800 looked really crummy on even professional DSLR cameras. But today, ISO 800 looks good and even ISO 1600 is adequate for many uses.
General rule of thumb (circa 2008) to ensure pleasing results:
Small point-n-shoot cameras – stay at 400 or less
Consumer DSLRs and other advanced amateur cameras – stay at 800 or less unless you must go higher (i.e. night or indoor sporting events)
Professional DSLRs – 1600 or higher depending on camera model
Note: Some cameras allow auto ISO or “high auto ISO” … be careful of this because the camera may not choose the best ISO for your particular situation. Often, unless you need a fast shutter speed or a deep depth of field, it is better to shoot at 125 f5.6 400 than 250 f8 1600 because the “grain” or “noise” at ISO 1600 will degrade the photo.
ISO, along with White Balance, is what sets digital cameras apart from 35mm film
cameras. With film, you loaded one roll of film and used that film speed for that entire roll. If you wanted to use a different film speed, you waited until you changed rolls. With digital, you can change the ISO setting for each photograph if you desire. This opens up a whole new world of options by allowing the third element of exposure – ISO – to be adjusted for each photo, just like shutter speed and aperture.
The trade-off:
A higher ISO is more sensitive to light (brighter), but usually offers less pleasing overall results because of increases in “grain” or “noise” in the final image and less overall sharpness, crispness, and color saturation.
A lower ISO is less sensitive to light (darker), but usually offers more pleasing overall results because of less grain/noise and better overall sharpness and color.
But this trade-off changes every year as the higher ISO settings in newer cameras get better and better. Five years ago, ISO 800 looked really crummy on even professional DSLR cameras. But today, ISO 800 looks good and even ISO 1600 is adequate for many uses.
General rule of thumb (circa 2008) to ensure pleasing results:
Small point-n-shoot cameras – stay at 400 or less
Consumer DSLRs and other advanced amateur cameras – stay at 800 or less unless you must go higher (i.e. night or indoor sporting events)
Professional DSLRs – 1600 or higher depending on camera model
Note: Some cameras allow auto ISO or “high auto ISO” … be careful of this because the camera may not choose the best ISO for your particular situation. Often, unless you need a fast shutter speed or a deep depth of field, it is better to shoot at 125 f5.6 400 than 250 f8 1600 because the “grain” or “noise” at ISO 1600 will degrade the photo.
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