Sunday, August 3, 2014

Camera Lens

A light-tight box with film in it doesn’t require a lens to expose film—even a pinhole camera can capture an image. But a lens can gather more light than a pinhole. A lens can focus and clarify. It’s the tool we use to define our image.

Scientists and photographers have studied the lens since the early Twentieth Century. Few will describe any lens as technically perfect, although a lens’ unique optical characteristics make it the best choice for a particular shoot.

Lens function is complex. We know that since all visible objects reflect light rays in all directions, we must gather as many rays as possible and get them to our film without distortion. Simple lenses use a single convex glass element positioned so that the light rays from the subject are bent towards and converge at the film. By carefully placing the lens relative to the film, we successfully record an image.

An iris is an aperture of variable size used to control the intensity of light falling on film. The iris control is usually calibrated in f-stops or T-stops. A change of one f-stop or T-stop is equivalent to doubling or halving the intensity of light falling on the film. T-stops are more accurate because they factor for light loss through the lens glasses.

Simple lenses have a limited ability to focus light. Optical distortions can result when light rays enter from the lens perimeter; those rays have to travel farther to reach the film and will be less focused. Toa limited degree we can solve this problem by narrowing the glass width; the resulting loss in light, however,makes the lens “slower.” For each additional stop of light passage in a given lens, the design becomes more complex—the geometric correction becomes more extreme.

Standard, wide-angle, telephoto, and zoom lenses include the ability to adjust focus and iris. Some lenses include a second element, positioned between the first element and the film. Its concave surface compensates for the distortion of the first element. Each element introduces distortion, typically resulting in internal reflection, or flare. The distance between these elements and the precise grind of the glass is critical, and these factors add significant cost to the lens.

An aperture controls the quantity of light passing through a lens. The best lenses perform well at every aperture setting. As such, the precision of the lens must be consistent at every point within each glass element.

Dr. Max Berek of Leitz established image quality standards before 1914 by capturing “miniature” still photographs on 35 mm film. His “circle of confusion” defined the measure of permissible out–of–focus quality in a ten-inch paper photograph. Though modified, this concept endures.

Color is probably the most complex factor in lens design. Because each color has a specific wavelength measured in nanometers, a particular shade has a unique wavelength. Blue objects and red objects will focus in diJerent places on a film frame, whether the film is black-and-white or color. Getting all colors to converge on a single plane despite their diJerent lengths is fundamental to lens design. In 1938 Kodak pioneered the concept of making glass lenses with exotic types of rare-earth elements and cementing them together in each element to correct the aberration.

Zoom lenses were developed later. A good zoom lens must address each of the potential pitfalls while oJering the utility of variable focal length. In motion picture applications, the light transmission, sharpness and individual color focus must remain unchanged despite the focal length change within a shot.

Focal Length and Focus

Lenses are identified by their focal length in millimeters and maximum aperture in f-stops (e.g., 50 mm/f1.4 lens). The focal length is defined as the distance from the optical center of the lens to the film plane. The f-stop is calculated from the dimensions of the lens.

Focal Length and Angle of View

The focal length of a lens determines the angle of view, or perspective, seen through the lens. Normal lenses provide a perspective that approximates human vision.

Lenses that are shorter than normal provide a wider angle of view—they are wide-angle lenses. Lenses that are longer than normal provide a narrower point of view and magnify the subject—they are telephoto lenses. Wide-angle lenses make background objects appear further away; telephoto lenses compress distance and make the background appear closer. Thus, moving the camera toward a subject (as in a dolly move) results in a look that is very diJerent from a scene captured by zooming the lens from a stationary camera position. The apparent separation from the background, making objects relatively smaller, makes camera movement less noticeable. Thus, using wider lenses for hand-held scenes is preferable.

Saturday, August 2, 2014

Digital Camera - TRIPOD

Created by James Ryan Carssow © 2009

A tripod is an essential tool of any good photographer. If you have a new camera, especially a DSLR, and are wondering what accessory to buy next, a quality tripod should top your list (followed soon after by a camera-brand external flash).

Why do I need a tripod?

To take photos of landscapes, sunsets, etc. at the peak times of beautiful natural light when you will need to utilize shutter speeds that are too slow for hand-holding your camera. This is the number one most important reason to own a tripod. You will MISS the shot of a lifetime as the sun sets and the sky explodes with orange color if you don’t have a tripod.
Tell me the five best landscape or sunset photos you’ve ever seen and I’ll bet you the cost of your camera that every single one of them was taken with the camera mounted on a tripod.

To take “macro” photos of tiny objects up close. Because of the extremely small apertures (f16, f22, f32) needed to get adequate depth of field in macro photography, the appropriate shutter speed may be too slow to hand-hold your camera.

To take photos of large groups of people. In these situations it is often best for the photographer to compose the shot and focus the camera, then take his eyes out of the viewfinder to scan the group and wait for the moment that everyone is smiling and looking at the camera to finally fire the shutter (a wired or wireless remote shutter release is also helpful here).

To take photos with yourself in them. Please don’t rest your $500 DSLR on the hood of your car or some flat surface in order to take a photo of you and your soul mate together in frontrandom of some iconic place on your vacation. This is how nice cameras get broken or stolen.

To take photos that will be digitally “stitched” together to form a panoramic view. Try doing this once without a tripod and once with. You’ll use a tripod every time after you see the difference in the results.

To take time elapse exposures of stars at night.
To take photos of cityscapes at night
To take photos of small objects to sell on eBay
To take photos of rivers and water falls in which the water appears to be “flowing” in the photo (you need shutter speeds of slower than 1/15th of one second to do this)
To take photos of sleeping babies (or husbands) indoors without flash

Basically … to take photos of any stationary subject in dim ambient light.

What kind of tripod to buy

This is a question with an easy or a complicated answer, depending on your point of view. The easy answer is buy a tripod that best fits your camera and how and where you like to photograph. The complicated answer is that there are hundreds of choices and prices ranging from $25 to well over $1,000. So here are some tips:

Always try out a tripod in person with YOUR camera before buying. This doesn’t mean you
can’t order a tripod over the internet or find a great deal on eBay, but try to test the same or a very similar tripod at a local photography store or from a photographer friend who already owns one. You don’t want to buy a tripod unseen only to realize once you receive it that it doesn’t work well with your camera.

Make sure the tripod is sturdy enough to hold your camera (and lens, flash etc.) steady in all
conditions and at all angles. If you have a heavy professional or semi-professional camera and/or lens, then you’ll need more than a $50 plastic tripod from Sunpak, Velbon, or Slik. But if you have a relatively small and light consumer-level DSLR, then one of these inexpensive tripods will work well.

Make sure the tripod is lightweight enough for YOU to carry it with you. The cliché amongst
photographers is that a cheap lightweight tripod that you actually have WITH YOU is 1000
times better than the heavy and expensive tripod that is sitting at home or in the trunk of your car.

Make sure the tripod “head”, the maneuverable contraption upon which the camera sits, is strong enough to support the weight of your camera and largest lens and a flash. Also make sure it can maneuver in every conceivable direction and that it locks down tight once your desired position is achieved. Make sure the methods of locking and unlocking the head’s movement are easy for you to use. Some are much more complicated and cumbersome than others.

Don’t buy a tripod that is intended for video cameras. The manner in which the tripod head rotates and “pans” is built for video cameras and not still cameras and will not be as maneuverable as you need for a still camera.

Make sure the tripod is flexible enough for your needs. For example, if you like to take macro photos of flowers and other things low to the ground, then your tripod needs to be able to flare its legs out so your camera can be positioned low to the ground. Good professional tripods can hold the camera anywhere from 6 inches to 6 feet above the ground. Cheap, plastic, consumer tripods can only go “as low” as their legs will collapse to when folded up for travel (usually 18 to 24 inches off the ground minimum).

If you own or use more than one camera, then you’ll definitely want a tripod with quick-release plates that screw into the bottom of each camera and then latch onto the tripod. This way you can quickly change from one camera to the other on the same tripod without having to unscrew the tripod screw each time. This is also safer and better for the camera (even if you only own one) because you’re screwing a small lightweight plate into the bottom of your camera, and not the entire tripod.

If you’re using a very large lens to photograph sporting events (something that costs at least
$1500 new) then you need a monopod, not a tripod. If you’re not using such a lens, then you do not need a monopod to photograph sports. If you mount your camera, and not your lens, to the monopod, then you don’t need a monopod.

Tips for photographing with a tripod

Tripods are really quite self-explanatory. Just adjust the legs to the height you want, then rotate, tilt, and pan the head until your camera is positioned properly. But there are a few tricks to know when using a tripod:

If you need a tripod for your photograph, it’s likely because of slower shutter speeds that would cause “camera shake” and blur from hand-holding the camera. If this is the case, then often even the motion of pressing the shutter button can blur the photo slightly even if mounted on a tripod.

There are two solutions to this:
Use a remote shutter release
Use the self-timer built into your camera. Any shaking motion caused by your finger depressing the shutter button will fade after a few seconds. So set your self-timer to 10 seconds, press the shutter, and the photo will be taken – shake free – 10 seconds later.
Many DSLRs have “grid lines” inside the viewfinder that can be turned on with a menu function (check your user manual). These lines are great for helping you level the horizon of a landscape photo so that the photo does not appear “tilted” if the horizon is not straight across. Don’t rely solely on any bubble level built into your tripod, as the horizon itself may not be perfectly level.

If the ground you’re working on is uneven, then adjust the legs of your tripod to compensate.
Don’t extend all three legs all the way and then let the tripod lean on the uneven ground. There’s a good reason the three legs adjust height independently, and this is it.

Try using your tripod at different heights to get new perspectives on typical subjects. Don’t be afraid to work with your knees, butt, or even belly on the ground.

For taking tripod-mounted photographs with the camera tilted to vertical orientation, it is best to use specialized camera-rotating brackets (available at good photography stores or online) that keep the camera’s center of gravity directly over the center of the tripod. Using the basic tilt function built into many tripods allows the camera to lean to one side of the tripod and could, in some cases, cause the camera to shake enough to blur a photo or even cause the tripod and camera to fall to the ground.

BE CAREFUL when using a tripod or monopod as they often give a false sense of security that your camera is completely stable and secure. One wrong spin or turn and you can knock over your tripod, sending your expensive camera to an early death on the hard ground below. SCARY

STORY – a former photographer colleague of mine once rested his monopod mounted camera and lens on a stadium wall for a brief second while digging another memory card out of his pocket. The top-heavy combination quickly slid off the wall, crashing to the concrete below. Both his $5,000 Nikon D2X camera and $6,000 Nikkor 200mm f2.0 lens were ruined – even the Nikon factory could not repair either.

Digital camera - ISO

Created by James Ryan Carssow © 2009

ISO, along with White Balance, is what sets digital cameras apart from 35mm film
cameras. With film, you loaded one roll of film and used that film speed for that entire roll. If you wanted to use a different film speed, you waited until you changed rolls. With digital, you can change the ISO setting for each photograph if you desire. This opens up a whole new world of options by allowing the third element of exposure – ISO – to be adjusted for each photo, just like shutter speed and aperture.

The trade-off:
A higher ISO is more sensitive to light (brighter), but usually offers less pleasing overall results because of increases in “grain” or “noise” in the final image and less overall sharpness, crispness, and color saturation.

A lower ISO is less sensitive to light (darker), but usually offers more pleasing overall results because of less grain/noise and better overall sharpness and color.

But this trade-off changes every year as the higher ISO settings in newer cameras get better and better. Five years ago, ISO 800 looked really crummy on even professional DSLR cameras. But today, ISO 800 looks good and even ISO 1600 is adequate for many uses.

General rule of thumb (circa 2008) to ensure pleasing results:

Small point-n-shoot cameras – stay at 400 or less
Consumer DSLRs and other advanced amateur cameras – stay at 800 or less unless you must go higher (i.e. night or indoor sporting events)
Professional DSLRs – 1600 or higher depending on camera model

Note: Some cameras allow auto ISO or “high auto ISO” … be careful of this because the camera may not choose the best ISO for your particular situation. Often, unless you need a fast shutter speed or a deep depth of field, it is better to shoot at 125 f5.6 400 than 250 f8 1600 because the “grain” or “noise” at ISO 1600 will degrade the photo.

Some basic photography truths …

Created by James Ryan Carssow © 2009

Photographing outdoors vs indoors Photographing outdoors in good daylight is EASY for any camera. I’ve seen good outdoor photos taken with a shoebox pinhole “camera” – seriously.
Photographing indoors or at night in sub par light is CHALLENGING for any camera and any photographer.

Shooting moving subjects
Shooting moving subjects (i.e. sports, pets, children) indoors or at night without adequate auxiliary lighting sources is EXTREMELY DIFFICULT for any camera and any photographer, and beyond the capabilities of many “consumer level” DSLR cameras and lenses. Yes, even if you paid $500 or $1000 for your camera you may be unable to get Sports Illustrated quality photos of your child’s 7 pm football game.

Lenses 
If you’re going to spend the money on a top-flight name-brand camera (Nikon, Canon, Olympus etc.) then buy the same name-brand lenses, flashes etc. in order to get the best performance from an entire camera system. There is no point to spending good money on a Nikon camera only to stick a mediocre Sigma, Tamron, or Quantaray lens on it. Retailers like Ritz/Wolf camera love to push off-brand lenses because their profit margins are higher on these cheaper products. But the most important part of any camera system is the quality of the glass in the lenses. Don’t skim on the glass to spend more on the electronics. As a general rule, DSLR cameras lose more than half their value in the first year; while quality, name-brand lenses often sell years later on the used market for 80% or more of their original purchase price.

megapixels The number of megapixels a camera utilizes is nearly meaningless as a measurement of the effectiveness of the camera or the quality of photos produced by it. Any camera with 4 megapixels or better is more than enough for any photograph printed 12x18 inches or smaller, and many 4 megapixel images can be printed as large as 2 foot x 3 foot if properly exposed and in sharp focus.
Megapixels are a misleading gimmick relied on by camera salesman to convince uneducated buyers to spend more money. Ever heard a camera salesman say, “this camera is twice as good, it has 8 megapixels and the other only has 4”. Well, just because the number 8 is double the number 4 does not mean an 8 megapixel image is twice as large (or twice as good) as a 4 megapixel image. A 4 megapixel image is approximately 2450 pixels by 1650 pixels = 4 million pixels. An 8 megapixel image is approximately 3600 pixels by 2400 pixel = 8 million pixels.
Look at the numbers: 3600 is not twice as much as 2450. And 2400 is not twice as much as 1650.

At best an 8 megapixel image is 50 percent “larger” than a 4 megapixel image, and in reality it is less significant than that in terms of a difference noticeable to the human eye. In order to achieve an image size twice as large as 4 megapixels, you need an image that is 4800 pixels x 3600 pixels or approximately 16 megapixels. And for what photographic purpose would you need 16 megapixels? To print billboards? Unless
you’re a professional making money on photography that requires extremely large prints, any camera offered for sale as of 2008 already has more megapixels than you’ll ever need or use.
So if given the choice between buying two very similar cameras, especially if from the same manufacturer, go for the camera with fewer megapixels because it will cost significantly less and offer no significant reduction in photographic quality. Camera makers and sellers love to charge hundreds of dollars more for a few more megapixels. Do the math and you’ll see the difference is negligible. Look at photographs taken with each camera and you’ll see the difference is even less.

One of the biggest scams in camera sales as of Christmas 2008 is the Nikon D60 a 10 megapixel DSLR camera that sells for $700 with a lens when compared to the Nikon D40, a nearly identical camera with 6 megapixels that sells for $450 with a lens. That’s a difference of $250 for 4 extra useless megapixels.

Of course, many cameras with higher megapixel counts also offer many other legitimate improvements over lower-megapixel cameras. The Nikon D200, for instance, was a quantum leap improvement over the D100 model it replaced, not because it had 10 MP to the D100’s 6 MP, but because it was built of stronger titanium alloy, had a more sophisticated autofocus system, a faster frame-advance rate, a significantly better flash system, a larger and brighter LCD screen, better ergonomics and menu design, and many other advances making it a better overall camera/

Friday, August 1, 2014

DSLR camera

Why buy/use a digital SLR camera?

 - flexibility
 - speed
 - manual control
 - to take your photographic possibilities beyond the limitations of “point and shoot”
 - better inherent image quality because of larger imaging sensors and more sophisticated exposure meters and autofocus systems


What is a DSLR camera and how is it different from other types of digital cameras?

DSLR = digital single lens reflex. An internal mirror reflects the view directly from the  photographic lens into the viewfinder. When the button is pressed to take a photo, this mirror is instantly pulled upward (this is the “clicking” or “tapping” noise you hear) and out of the way of the shutter, which slides open to expose the imaging sensor (the digital “film”). Because you see directly through the photographic lens, there is no need for a second “viewing” lens (as with older camera designs), thus – single lens reflex.

The SLR design is superior to other designs because it allows the photographer to see through the viewfinder exactly what is seen through the lens and what will be “seen” by the imaging sensor. When looking through the viewfinder of non-SLR cameras, the image seen is not exactly the same that the imaging sensor or film “sees”.

Point-n-shoot digital cameras have electronic LCD viewing screens at the rear of the camera that show a digital representation of the view through the lens. But an SLR is still the only camera style that allows a real-time optical view through the photographic lens. This inherently allows for faster and more precise operation of an SLR camera over other types.


SLR System
SLR System - How does it look

Cross-section view of SLR system:
1: Front-mount lens (four-element Tessar design)
2: Reflex mirror at 45-degree angle
3: Focal plane shutter
4: Film or sensor
5: Focusing screen
6: Condenser lens
7: Optical glass pentaprism (or pentamirror)
8: Eyepiece (can have diopter correction ability)